Winter Gardening with Pollinators

/in /by

We gardeners are stewards of the earth. We share our garden not only with plants, but with the many critters that depend on them. This includes pollinators! Many species of insects and birds act as pollinators, including hummingbirds, bees, hoverflies, moths & butterflies, and more. Since pollinators are inextricably linked to food security (so many of the foods we eat require pollination, such as all fruits, beans, squashes and more), we should all be concerned about their health. Many of the choices we make as gardeners can support these creatures. Here are a few simple ways that you can help your local pollinators.

Winter-flowering plants provide food for pollinators

One of the most fun ways to help local populations of pollinators is to include winter-flowering plants in your garden. Though most of these insects hibernate during the cold temperatures, they can awaken and become active on warm days. Having a nectar source is important; it provides nourishment to them.  Cheer yourself and feed these little friends with some of these winter flowers. Planting in groups can make it easier for these winged friends to find this food.

Mahonia

There are several species of Mahonia, or Oregon Grape, that you can plant in your garden.  Pictured is the large evergreen shrub Mahonia x media, which is the earliest to flower. No garden should be without one! Their bright yellow flowers in December thru February are loved by hummingbirds and gardeners alike. The best part for Whidbey Island gardeners is that the deer do not love this plant!

Hellebore

How about another indispensable garden plant?! This easy-to-grow evergreen perennial brings cheer and nectar with its blooms, from December through March in shades of white, cream, pink, red and even black! Another early flowering perennial worth including is Pasque Flower (Pulsatilla vulgaris).

Primrose

These delightful perennial plants can be tucked in many little spots in the garden. Use them in beds as a groundcover or between deciduous perennials, or plant in pots for a spot of winter and early spring cheer. Other plants like this to include would be Cyclamen & Pansies.

Heather

Here’s a true work-horse plant! Heathers and Heaths offer evergreen interest – especially if you choose a variety with golden or silver foliage – as well as flowers from fall through spring. These are drought tolerant and deer-resistant!

Winter & spring flowering bulbs

We can’t overlook the contribution that winter & spring flowering bulbs make to the pollinator menu. Well known blooms such as Crocus, Muscari, Dutch Hyacinth as well as lesser-known ones like Snowdrop (Galanthus) and Winter Aconite are fun to include in the garden and offer nectar as well.

Erysimum

Deliciously fragrant Wallflower (Erysimum) is a treat for the nose as well as the pollinators.  These sun-loving, drought- and deer-tolerant semi-evergreen perennials are great for early color in the garden.

Other plants that are not pictured that are great sources of nectar include early flowering trees & shrubs, such as Witch Hazel, Forsythia, Cherries, Plums, Strawberry Trees (Arbutus), Abelia, Daphne, Cornelian Cherry (Cornus mas), Hebe and others.   

A “messy garden” is okay with pollinators! 

It is okay with many of these creatures if you aren’t a tidy gardener. “Messy gardens” can offer food and shelter. Plants that you didn’t deadhead can throw off the random bloom in the winter, offering a meal to any nectar-lovers flying by.

Loss of habitat is a leading reason for pollinator decline. Our gardens can help offset that loss. Random garden debris, such as leaf litter, spent stems, and curled up bits of bark and branches, offers shelter and nesting spots for overwintering insects. Give yourself a break and help your garden buddies.  Instead of raking every bit of debris up, leave a layer of litter and debris in place to compost and to provide this needed habitat.  

Only use organic chemicals in your garden

One of the major reasons pollinator populations are in decline across the globe is exposure to harmful chemicals. Make your garden a safe place for bird and insect life (and in turn, many other forms of life) by avoiding toxic chemicals such as Weed and Feed, Preen, Nicotine-based sprays (aka neo-nicotenoids) and other insect killers.

Learn more about pollinators:

Photo credit to Jennifer Reetz.

Fall Garden Maintenance Tips

/in /by

Fall is a busy time in the garden. Here are a few helpful tips and things to think about to help you be an effective gardener during this beautiful season.

Update Pots for Winter

This is a great time to give your pots a refresh. Dig out your summer annuals and replace them with fall and winter interest plants. Consider a colorful conifer for interest every day of the year. Get your flower fix by including a winter-flowering perennial like a Heather or Hellebore. Add some evergreen grass for texture, such as Bronze Carex or Blue Fescue. Tuck in a few seasonal annuals for splash. At this time of year, choose from Pansies, Cabbage Mums, or Cyclamen. Finish it off with something like Wintergreen, which offers red berries for a final bit of zip. Don’t forget to work in a few fresh handfuls of compost or manure to give your plants the fertility they need to be their best.

Protect Your Trees, Shrubs from Deer

Late fall/early winter is rutting season. This is when bucks rub their antlers and foreheads on trees, shrubs, fenceposts, etc. to release their scent and mark their territory. Surround your plants with fencing, monofilament, or deer spray to protect them from damage. Even “deer resistant” plants are eligible for rutting damage. 

If you would like to read more about protecting your plants from deer, you can read this blog post. 

Tidy Up with Care

Keeping a clean garden is important for disease prevention, but it is also important to consider the birds and bugs. Strategically leave some standing dead perennials to provide winter interest in the garden, as well as food for the birds. 

Any flower in the daisy family makes seeds that small birds adore. Take the easy road – instead of deadheading your Brown-Eyed Susans, Asters, and Heleniums, leave them to form seed heads. When it snows, it’s really charming to watch little birds land on these stems and peck their dinners out!

Spent stems can be beautiful! Plants such as grasses, Iris, Phlomis, Artichoke/Cardoon, Yarrow, Agapanthus, and Allium make beautiful seed heads that provide lots of interest when left standing for the winter.

Don’t get too tidy in the garden or you can clean away habitat for nature’s helpers. Creatures like ground beetles, snakes, and lizards eat slugs, slug eggs, and other bothersome critters. They need the cover of stones, branches, and leaves to hide in during the winter. Create habitat for them by leaving some of your deciduous perennials “unkempt” for the winter. Letting the foliage die back naturally and rot provides cover. You can also leave a few small logs laying around, or create small piles of stones for them to hide in. Evergreen grasses, ferns, and perennials are also wonderful shelters for these garden friends.

Stop the Pest and Disease Cycle

Keep your plants healthy next year by cleaning up diseased foliage now. Don’t perpetuate disease by composting the infected foliage; instead, throw it in the trash. This includes common garden plant diseases such as black spot, botrytis, powdery mildew, shot hole, and other fungal infections.

Prevent overwintering pests. If you have had an insect infestation in your garden, read up on how that critter overwinters, and take care to disrupt their overwintering habits in order to have fewer pests next year. 

Those of us with fruit trees should clean up all fallen fruit to prevent overwintering of fruit pests such as Apple Maggot. Dispose of the fruit–do not compost it. Similarly, rake up and dispose of the leaves from any trees that have suffered from scab to prevent fungal spores from overwintering.

To cut or not to cut? 

Some plants are puzzling! When should we cut them back? Here are a few ways to think about plants that I find helpful in analyzing what to cut back or not. 

Meet the Silvers! These are plants like Lavender, Russian Sage (Perovskia), Lamb’s Ear (Stachys), Wormwood (Artemesia), Senecio, and so on. Pretty much any plant with silver foliage does NOT want to be cut back when it is chilly. 

Another group is “plants on the verge.” These are plants that are on the verge of hardiness here in the PNW. These include any woody shrubs/perennials from warmer places, such as Pittosporum, Manzanita (Arctostaphylos), Grevillia, Leptospermum, Eucalyptus, Hebe, and so on.

Another group of plants that should NOT be cut back are the evergreen grasses. Plants such as Carex (of all types), Blue Oat (Helictotrichon), Blue Fescue (Festuca), Mondo (Ophiopogon), and Lilyturf (Ophiopogon) are all grasses that prefer to be left alone and should rarely be cut back! If these plants start looking tattered, you can cut them back in the spring when temps start to warm and your lawn is waking up. Follow a trim with an application of a nitrogen fertilizer for the best regrowth. Only cut these plants back every several years.

Reconfigure

Since fall is the best time for planting and transplanting, it’s a great time to take a fresh look at your garden. Did it work this year? Are there changes you’d like to make? Do you have enough winter interest? Take advantage of low-stress weather (for the digger and the plant!), as well as the many root-growth cycles that autumn and winter offer and make your garden edits and additions now. 

Shop for Fall Color

The best time to buy a plant for its fall color is when it’s showing it. Come on over to Venture Out to see the show and make your selection. Here are a few of my favorite plants for fall foliage:

  • Sumac (Rhus) ‘Gro-Lo’
  • Dogwood (Cornus) ‘Baileyi’
  • Cranberry Viburnum ‘Winterthur’
  • Witch Hazel (Hamamelis)
  • Cherry (Prunus)
  • Maple, especially Acer ginnala
  • Smoke Bush (Cotinus)
  • Barberries (Berberis)
  • Serviceberry (Amelanchier)

Shop for Winter Interest

When the leaves are falling, it’s a good time for plants to reveal their winter charms, bringing the focus to their forms, bark, or persistent berries/fruit. Here are a few of my favorite plants for winter interest:

  • Oakleaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia)
  • Vine Maple (Acer) ‘Pacific Fire’
  • Striped Bark Maple (Acer tegmentosum)
  • Spindle Tree (Euonymus europea)
  • Hawthornes Crataegus lavallei or ‘Winter King’
  • Crabapples (Malus), especially ‘Golden Raindrops’
  • Korean Dogwood (Cornus kousa)
  • Stewartia pseudocamellia or monadelpha

And then, of course, there are all the colorful conifers that number too many to talk about here. (Learn more about my favorite conifers in this blog post.)

Protect and Improve Your Soil

This is the time for making compost, spreading compost, mulching, and for planting cover crops. Mulches and cover crops help protect your soil from erosion caused by winter rains. They can help keep nutrients from being carried away with the rain, and they can help prevent cool-season weeds from germinating.

Fall clean up offers lots of material for the compost. Remember that fallen leaves and spent plants are often a great source of trapped nutrients. Adding this plant material to your compost will make it more nutritious for the next plants to receive it. Maintain the potency of the compost pile by keeping it covered so rain doesn’t wash away all its goodness.

Prepare for spring beauty!

Look ahead and plan your spring garden now! Plant bulbs such as Daffodil, Hyacinth, and Tulip for a welcome blast of color in the spring. Protect them from squirrels digging by covering the planting area with a piece of hardware cloth staked over the bulbs. In my garden, Daffodils, Alliums, and Dutch Hyacinth are the most deer resistant of the bulbs.

Sow cool season annual seeds like Love in a Mist (Nigella) and Larkspur.

October and November are also the best months to plant garlic!

Prune

Once a plant has lost its leaves, it is safe for pruning. This is the easiest time to see the skeleton of the plants. It is really best to wait until the plant has been dormant for a while. Fall is an okay time for light pruning.

Winterize

Prepare for freezing and windy weather. Turn off and winterize your irrigation system. Drain and hang hoses. Protect spigots with insulating covers.

Bring in any tender patio plants that you wish to overwinter, such as Hibiscus, Princess Flower (Tibuchina), Bougainvillea, Mandevilla, Geranium, tender Succulents, and so on.

Windproof your garden. Store your patio furniture. Make sure row covers are weighted down. Tidy away buckets, watering cans, etc.

Slug and Snail Control

Whenever it is moist, slugs and snails flourish! Protect your plants by using a non-toxic, iron phosphate-based slug bait like Slug Magic or Sluggo. Products like these control the slug and snail population without causing danger to dogs and cats.

Certainly, this isn’t ALL there is to do in the fall garden, but hopefully this helps you get started!

Happy gardening!

Oh, Deer! Winning the Battle with Whidbey Island’s most Notorious Garden Pests

/in /by

Deer are a part of life on South Whidbey. They are often seen wandering the roadsides, strolling the outskirts of town, and munching their way through local gardens. For newcomers to the island, deer sightings illicit delight: “They’re so cute!” But this attitude quickly changes with the first forays into gardening here on the rock.

If you don’t experience problems with deer in your landscape, count yourself lucky! For the rest of us, these cute creatures can be a real nuisance. Here are some strategies for gardening in deer country.

Choose Deer Resistant Plants

This is a first step, but we have to be honest: no plant is 100% “deer proof. Whidbey deer have been known to consume even the most thorny, stinky, and downright poisonous plants known to gardeners. From Barberry to Euphorbia, Japanese Forest Grass to Foxglove, no plant on our island seems to be safe.

Young deer, especially, are willing to try just about anything. And “try” doesn’t always mean an exploratory nibble: sometimes the critters strip several branches before deciding they don’t like it.

Here at Venture Out Nursery, we offer a list of “Deer Resistant Plants” to our customers. It includes the prickly, smelly, and toxic options mentioned above, as well as beautiful and worthy things like Russian Sage, Yarrow, Bear’s Breeches, and Hellebore. But it comes with this disclaimer: no plant is 100% deer proof. What a deer will eat may depend on the herd, the season, the location of the plant, and what other food is available nearby.

Use Barriers

Try these options to protect your landscaping from the cute invaders:

  • Build a deer-proof fence. Deer can jump up to 8 feet high, so make sure your fence is tall enough to deter them.
  • Protect tempting plants with chicken wire.
  • Protect plants with fishing line. Drive three to five wooden stakes into the ground around the plant or tree, then wrap the perimeter in fishing line, spiraling from bottom to top. You can leave about 6” between each wrap. Deer are uncomfortable ducking their heads into small spaces, so the fishing line provides an effective barrier, and, possibly, a more attractive option than chicken wire. Make sure your stakes are tall enough to protect the desired plant or tree: deer can stand on their hind legs to reach those upper limbs!

Use Repellents

Deer seem to be especially interested in new plantings, often devouring plants within the first week of them being planted. Make the first introduction a negative experience by keeping new plants well-doused with deer repellent spray. Here at Venture Out, we carry a non-toxic formula that is safe for people, pets, and wildlife. Made from hot peppers and putrescent egg solids, these sprays effectively repel deer as well as rabbits and squirrels. It is even safe to use on fruits and vegetables. Just remember to wash it off before you take a bite, so you don’t get surprised by a yucky, spicy mouthful! Reapply frequently in rainy weather.

Even Deer-Resistant Plants Need Protection During the Fall

Eating plants isn’t the only way that deer can wreck a garden. The autumn through early winter is rutting season, when the deer are mating. Male deer can do serious damage to the garden. They rub their antlers on any tree or shrub in their path in order to leave their scent and thereby define their territory and attract mates. Discourage damage to your plants by protecting them with chicken wire or fishing line during this time of year.

We hope some of these techniques prove useful in your landscape! Please visit us at the nursery for more ideas for keeping your garden beautiful despite living in deer country.

Written by Olivia Round & Tobey Nelson.

 

Learn about some of Tobey’s favorite deer resistant plants and tips in this video!

Fall Planting Dos and Don’ts for the Pacific Northwest

/in /by

Fall is the best time for planting!

Fall is a great time to plant here in the Pacific Northwest. Cool temperatures and increased moisture mean lower transpiration rates, making fall planting and transplanting less stressful for a plant than in spring or summer.   

Don’t wait for spring!

Fall-planted trees, shrubs, and perennials develop more established root systems. Plants that seem to be “sleeping” during the winter are actually hard at work growing roots. Between October and March, there are several root growth cycles. A shrub planted in the fall will be more robust and resilient than the same shrub planted the following spring.

Do plant before the ground freezes!

Plants are more insulated in the ground than above it. If you have plants still sitting around in their pots, it’s better to get them into the ground than to leave them unplanted. Even if you are unsure of where they should go, plant them somewhere. You can always transplant them later! If you must leave plants unplanted, bring them into a cool garage or at least insulate their pots/root balls with some mulch, in a pile of autumn leaves, or stack some evergreen boughs around them. If you can get a shovel in the ground with relative ease, you can plant, which is the best solution. 

Do check for water!

Our abundant rainfall in winter usually means less work for the gardener. Soils typically remain moist between October and April. But sometimes we see dry spells, and winter winds can be desiccating. Areas under eaves or large evergreens can tend toward the dry side as well. Don’t assume that since it is raining, your plants are well watered. Do go out and feel the soil to see if it is moist several inches down. You may need to supplement occasionally.

Do mulch!

Our fall and winter temperatures can vary, and these temperature changes can be a bit hard on roots. Providing a nice blanket of mulch can help moderate soil fluctuations, which your plants will appreciate. Plus, keeping the soil “in the dark” will suppress those cool-season weeds! Just remember to keep the mulch away from the trunks and crowns of your trees and shrubs, and don’t bury your perennials!

Do consider staking!

During the winter, we can get winds that can impact unrooted trees. Do consider staking fall-planted trees to help keep them straight. Remember to give them some wiggle room and not tie them too tightly. Here is a short video guide from the International Society of Arboriculture for staking trees.

Don’t fertilize!

Fertilizing can confuse a plant, making it think it is time to grow when it’s not. Fall-planted trees and shrubs rarely need any fertilizer. It is best to wait until March or April to feed your plants.

Don’t prune!

In general, it is best not to cut back plants at the time of planting. The exception would be any broken branches. Keep the trimming of newly planted trees and shrubs to a minimum at this time.

I hope this article has encouraged you to keep gardening this autumn! Take advantage of the benefits of this time of year and invest in the beauty of your yard and garden for all the seasons to come. 

Growing Rhododendrons on Whidbey Island

/in /by

Rhododendrons are ubiquitous in Pacific Northwest gardens—to the point where some would consider them a “boring” addition to the landscape. But the case for planting rhododendrons is strong: These evergreen shrubs are hardy and resistant to diseases and pests, with a long blooming period. They tolerate freezing temperatures better than most other broadleaf plants. They also thrive in part shade and moist and acidic soils, making them perfect candidates for the Pacific Northwest!

Rhodies are one of the most widely hybridized plants in the world, but the original species still exist. “Species Rhodies,” as they’re called, are found growing in nature across the Northern Hemisphere, with a high concentration in the Sino-Himalaya area (think Eastern China).

Although not widely available, these “Species Rhodies” are being cultivated and sold by a few growers in the Pacific Northwest, including Chimacum Woods in Port Ludlow, Washington. That’s where Venture Out Nursery sources their selection of Species Rhodies!

Rhodies arrived in Europe during the height of the Renaissance, during the age of exploration. The first collected Species Rhodies were brought to England in 1656, and the shrubs were soon incorporated into many European gardens. Rhododendrons were able to withstand the collection and delivery process better than other plants, due to their fibrous and relatively shallow root systems.

Optimal Rhododendron Growing Conditions

Sun: Sun and shade tolerance vary among varieties, but in general, rhodies prefer morning sun and afternoon shade.

Soil: Rhodies need acidic, loamy, well-drained, moist soils.

Deer: Rhododendrons are generally deer-resistant, although young plants should be protected from curious fawns.

Pruning: The canopy can be carefully cut back by up to 1/3. The best time for pruning is usually after the blooming period has just ended (summer to fall, depending on the species).

Fertilization: Rhodies will benefit from an all-purpose or slightly acidic fertilizer, like the “Azalea, Rhododendron, & Camellia” fertilizer by G&B, which is now in stock at Venture Out Nursery. Rhodies can be fertilized in the early spring as the shrubs are beginning to bud, to encourage blooms and new growth. 

Favorite Species Rhododendrons

Large Leaves

Rhododendron kesangiae: Rose pink flowers fade to pastels. Superb large leaves, and one of the most reliable and hardiest of all rhododendrons. Can grow into a large shrub or a small tree.

Rhododendron fictolacteum: White flowers with deep purple spots on throat. Leaves can grow up to 1 foot long with fuzzy orange undersides. Can grow 5 feet in 10 years.

Rhododendron rex: Glossy, large leathery leaves, pale white flowers with rosy tints, and dark purple spots. Can grow 6 feet in 10 years.

Unusual Flowers or Foliage

Rhododendron orbiculare: Soft pink, bell-shaped flowers. Wide, rounded leaves can resemble lily pads. Compact growth habit.

Rhododendron spinuliferum: Tubular blooms in red, soft orange, and white. Unusual twisting, airy growth habit means this shrub won’t have the tidy, rounded shape of many rhodies. Long, deeply veined leaves add interest. Can grow 8 feet with 10+ years.

Rhododendron wiltonii: Soft pink blooms blotched with darker rose tones. Leaves have prominent veins and cinnamon-colored undersides. Forms a rounded shrub 4‒5 feet high in 10 years.

Fragrant Flowers

Rhododendron auriculatum: A late-bloomer (July‒August) with white flowers that sometimes blush pink and are always deliciously fragrant. Hairy, narrow green leaves. Can grow 6 feet in 10 years.

Rhododendron decorum: Late-blooming white, fragrant blossoms. Can grow 10 feet in 10 years, larger with time.

Hummingbird Early Favorites

/in /by

Looking for plants that hummingbirds love? Anna’s hummingbirds, the only species to overwinter rather than migrate south, will especially appreciate these cold season bloomers. During the long months of January, February, and March, nectar is less abundant. But with spring in the air, this is the perfect time to plant your garden for next year’s winter hummingbird buffet!

Pulmonaria

Also called lungwort, this shade-loving perennial is blooming now in a variety of colors, from hot pink to violet blue. Pulmonaria is a rich source of nectar, providing food for bees and butterflies, as well as hummingbirds. The rough leaf texture deters the three most common garden pests on Whidbey Island: slugs, rabbits, and deer. Pulmonaria’s attractive spotted leaves are very resistant to powdery mildew, and it blooms well in part sun to deep shade.

‘Yuletide’ Camellia

Yuletide is one of the earliest blooming camellias. With bright red petals and a golden center, it’s no wonder these flowers attract hummingbirds. This glossy-leafed evergreen shrub blooms well even in part shade.

Mahonia x media ‘Charity’

This winter-blooming shrub has already flowered for the season, but the vivid yellow, fragrant flowers provided food for overwintering hummingbirds in December and January. Mahonia is also deer and rabbit resistant, and tolerant of both sun and shade.

Hellebore

With a variety of flower colors and leaf textures, the selection of hellebores seems endless. These perennials bloom from January to March, are shade tolerant, and are both deer and rabbit resistant.

Flowering Currant

A native flowering shrub that bursts into bloom in March, just in time to feed the returning migratory hummingbirds. Even with the recent cold weather, we saw some flowering currants blooming last week!

Bleeding Heart

These nodding pink blooms appear in early spring, attracting hungry hummingbirds. Bleeding heart prefers moist soil and part shade.

Other Hummingbird Attractors

Water Sources

Hummingbirds need access to shallow pools of water for drinking and bathing. Shallow bird baths (we’ve got some beauties!) or garden misters are recommended.

Hiding Places

These tiny birds need a place to rest, out of view of predators. Tall shrubs offer the perfect respite.

Healthy, Organic Gardens

Did you know hummingbirds also eat insects? It turns out they can’t survive on sugar alone! Hummingbirds need to consume small insects and spiders for protein, so cultivating an organic garden free of chemical pesticides will provide them with a balanced diet.

Undisturbed Nests

Be careful when pruning or removing trees in your landscape: there might be a hummingbird (or other bird species) nest up there! Hummingbirds lay eggs the size of jelly beans in late winter/early spring, and hatchlings remain in the nest 3 weeks after they emerge. By May or June, the hatchlings should fly away and a nesting tree can be removed.

Japanese Maples

/in /by

We love Japanese Maples. These deciduous trees provide year-round interest, offering a wide variety of colors and texture in the spring, summer, and fall, with elegant branches visible in the winter.

Stop by the Nursery today to find your next fall favorite. Will it be the plum-colored Purple Sentinel? A blushing Red Emperor? A sneak-attack Osakasuki, that makes a sudden change from deep green to fiery red in the fall? Or perhaps you’d prefer the vibrant yellows of the Ichigyoji’s autumn leaves? We have all of these varieties and dozens more available for your viewing pleasure!

Tips for Success

Sun

Japanese Maples prefer morning sun and afternoon shade. Most maples will burn in the intense heat of the afternoon sun. Even the more “sun-tolerant” Maples can show signs of leaf burn during the first few growing seasons until they fully adjust to their location. Conversely, putting Maples in deep shade will make their fall color less vibrant.

Soil

Well-drained, compost-rich soil is best for Japanese Maples. If you have heavy clay or sandy soil, and need to amend it, we recommend products such as Gardner & Bloome’s Soil Conditioner or Purely Compost. Just ask us which soil amendment is right for you!

Salt

These trees are not suited for coastal areas with strong winds and salt spray. If there’s any chance that airborne salt will get on the tree, plant it somewhere more protected!

Containers

Japanese Maples can live for many years in large containers, provided they have good drainage and consistent watering. Proper pruning boosts a containerized Maples’ health and vigor. Also, a handful of all-purpose fertilizer applied once a year will be greatly appreciated by your tree! Depending on pot size, a small Maple may need to be root-pruned and re-potted as it grows.

Deer

Unfortunately, deer love Japanese Maples as much as we do. Younger trees are particularly vulnerable, whereas more established trees aren’t as affected by occasional grazing. You’ll want to protect small Japanese Maples from deer with a liquid spray or, preferably, a physical barrier. See our recent “Oh Deer!” blog post for more tips to keep your garden safe from deer.

If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to call, email, or stop by the Nursery for more information. We look forward to seeing you soon!

Written by Olivia Round.