Growing Gorgeous Grasses

Ornamental grasses are the perfect way to add texture and movement to a garden.  While they look great all year, fall is the time when they really shine. 

Mother Nature coaxed the evolution of a grass for every ecological niche: there are both evergreen and deciduous types, and varieties that grow in shade as well as sun.  Plant breeders have made improvements on the work of Nature.  Now there are grasses offering leaves of brilliant lemon yellow, calming powdery blues, cozy deep wine reds, tawny toffee browns and oranges, and some with stripes and some with splashes.  There are wide and skinny blades to suit a range of texture needs.  Their flowers range from soft bunny tail-like wands to velvety plumes to charming dangly oat-esque seed heads to spikes that look like a glistening explosion of fireworks when they are backlit in the low autumn sun.

Many grasses offer fall color.  Many offer drought resilience.  Whether you need a short little tuft or a tower fountain, include some grasses in your garden and enjoy the sound of grass rustling in the wind. 

Maintenance Tips

The best time to plant grasses is fall, when they are readily available in nurseries.  You can also plant in the spring.  Evergreen grasses should not be cut back!  Deciduous grasses are best tidied up in February just when new growth starts.  If your grass needs a boost, fertilize in March or April.

Here are some of our favorites.

Evergreen grasses for sun

Carex testacea, buchanini – Bronze sedges

Festuca – Blue Fescue

Helictotrichon – Blue Oat Grass

Evergreen grasses for shade

Acorus – Sweet Flag

Carex Evercolor series –Everest, EverGlow, Eversheen, Everillo, Everoro, or Feather Falls

Lirope spicata & muscari – Lilyturf & Mondo Grasses

Ophiopogon ‘Nigrescens’ – Black Mondo Grass

Deciduous grasses for sun

Anemanthele

Calamagrostis – Feather Reed Grass

Imperata ‘Red Baron’ – Japanese Blood Grass

Molina caerula – Moor Grass

Panicum – Switch Grass 

Pennisetum – Fountain Grass

Deciduous grasses for shade

Carex elata Bowles Golden – Golden Sedge

Chasmanthium latifolium – Sea Oats

Deschampsia cespitosa – Tufted Hair Grass

Hakonechloa macra – Japanese Forest Grass (several cultivars)

Watch this video with Tobey Nelson to see some of these grasses and learn more about using them in your garden!

Heat and Sun Damaged Plant Care

Is my sunburned plant dead?

The recent heat wave fried a lot of gardeners and a lot of plants too!  Just because a plant’s leaves are scorched does not mean the plant is dead. 

There are two ways plants can be damaged by the intense heat and strong sun.  To understand what happens to plants in extreme sunlight and heat, consider what happens to humans.  Strong sun makes us thirsty and we get sunburned.  It is the same with plants! 

CAUSES OF SUN STRESS ON PLANTS

Plants need water to live.  Roots take water from the soil, and it is drawn up through the plant to the foliage.  If the hot sun dries out the soil, and there is no water for the plant to take up, the leaves will wilt.  If the situation persists the leaf tissue, and then the stem tissue, will be damaged.  It will eventually turn a crunchy brown. 

Just like strong sunshine fries your skin tissues with the UV rays, plant leaf cells can be damaged by UV light – especially when there is a sudden change in the intensity of light (like because of a massive heat wave, or when you move a plant from shade to sun).  This damage doesn’t necessarily correlate to moisture availability; even plants with adequate water can have scalded leaves.  Intense UV can even scald the bark (and along with it the vascular tissue that lies just underneath) of thin-skinned trees such as Japanese Maples.  This can result in more extensive damage: whole stems and branches supported by that scalded section of bark can die, due to disruption of the water supply due to the damage to the vascular tissue.

WHAT TO DO ABOUT SUN DAMAGED PLANTS

Is it dead or will it revive? 

If a plant was drought-stressed and has a few crunchy leaves, it may enough to cut back the damaged tissue and give it a deep drink.  If the damage is extensive – lots of dead stems with crunchy tips – you may need to cut the plant back to the ground and hope it regrows.  If you aren’t sure whether to cut or not, try bending the tips.  If they are flexible, then leave them alone – they aren’t dead!  If they snap off, they are dead and you can cut back until you reach flexible tissue.  You can also try the scratch test: scrape the bark in a small area with your fingernail or a knife.  If it is green, there is life.  If it is brown, it is dead.

If you kept your plant well-watered during the heat but nonetheless its foliage is turning white, or brown and crunchy, the best solution is to remove the damaged leaves.  If the burn is not from this heat wave, but because you recently moved your plant from shade to sun, you may want to leave the damaged foliage in place until the plant has had a chance to acclimatize.  A gradual introduction to more intense sunlight is preferred; that gives the plant time to “toughen up” the cells to tolerate more sunshine.

In either case, make sure the soil is moist.  Consider applying a dilute solution of an organic liquid fertilizer that is high in Nitrogen (like a 4-0-1 or 3-2-3 fish emulsion).  Maintain even soil moisture and you should see signs of life returning in 2 – 4 weeks. 

If after 6 weeks there is no sign of life, it could mean mean that the root system was damaged by desiccation and got too dry to regrow, or that damage to the plant tissues was too extensive to recover from.  Then it is time to visit the nursery for a replacement!

CONIFERS ARE A SPECIAL CASE

The above treatment works for perennials, grasses, and deciduous woody shrubs.  Conifers require different treatment.  Most conifers will not back-bud.  This means they will not make new growth on bare branches or the trunk.  If you cut them back, you may be removing their growing tips, and can cause permanent damage.  If your conifer has brown crunchy foliage, simply remove the dead foliage without cutting back any branches.  Give the plant a steady supply of water and see if new needles appear in the next several weeks.  If after 6 weeks, there is no sign of life, it may mean you need to visit your local nursery for a replacement plant.

Winter Blooming Plants for Whidbey Island Gardens

Winter on Whidbey Island can be hard. Short days, gray skies, and dormant plants can make for a gloomy garden. But your landscape doesn’t have to be all bare sticks and dark conifers! There are plants, shrubs, and trees that take a back seat all summer to showy perennials, just so they can shine in these colder months.

We’re offering a “Winter Interest Plants” class at the Nursery on Saturday, October 27 at 11:00 am. It will be a fun and informative showcase of plants that can bring joy and color to your winter garden! Register today by calling (360) 321-9931 or emailing olivia@ventureoutnursery.com

And if you can’t join us for the class, read on for an inspiring list of plants that bloom anywhere from November to February.

Winter-blooming herbaceous perennials

Hardy Cyclamen – Toxic to rabbits and deer. Leaves emerge in the fall and flowers bloom throughout winter. These tough, hardy plants will spread and colonize an area with time. Prefer very well-draining soils in shaded areas.

Hellebore – One of the first blooming plants in the New Year! Toxic to deer and rabbits. Prefer well-drained organic soils and filtered sun to shade. Hellebores are evergreen, but we recommend cutting the leaves off entirely by early January, before they flower. This will give the plants a fresh start and prevent any of last year’s mold or harmful bacteria from infecting the new blooms.

Winter-blooming Small Shrubs (4 to 6 feet)

Corylopsis Pauciflora aka “Buttercup Winter Hazel” – Fragrant yellow flowers. Grows to 6’ x 4’.

Winter Daphne – We have Daphne Odora “Marginata” in stock. Needs regular moisture and filtered sun. Fragrant, pale pink flowers continue from winter to early spring. Evergreen variegated leaves help to brighten shady spots. Grows to 4’ x 4’.

Mahonia x Media “Winter Sun” – An evergreen shrub with fragrant yellow flowers in late winter and spring, with dusty blue berries in summer. This tough plant can adapt to sun or shade, moist or dry, with time. Slow growing to 6’ x 5’.

Sarcoccoca – These are the small white flowers with a really BIG fragrance, appearing in late winter and early spring. Deer and rabbit resistant, it has evergreen, glossy leaves and is perfect for dry shade.  

  • S. Humilis “Sarsid 2” aka “Fragrant Valley” – Covered in small fragrant white flowers, it blooms for several weeks in late winter. Perfect for dry shade and very disease resistant. Grows to 15 inches high x 3 feet wide.
  • S. Confusa “Shrubby Sweetbox” – Blooms late winter to early spring. Grows to 3’ x 5’.
  • S. Ruscafolia – Blooms January and February. Grows to 4’ x 6’.

Red Flowering Currant (native) – One of the first blooms for hummingbirds in early spring. Attractive cascades of red to pink flowers. Grows to 6’ x 5’.

Winter-blooming Large Shrubs (6 to 12 feet)

Witch Hazel – Large green leaves appear in spring and summer, taking a back seat to other showier garden plants. But in the fall, a riot of reds, oranges, and yellows spread throughout the leaves, and then in late winter, fragrant blossoms appear on the bare branches.

  • Hamamelis x “Diane” – Mildly fragrant orangey-red flowers. Grows to 12’ x 12’.
  • Hamamelis x Intermedia “Jelena” – Colorful fall foliage followed by coppery-orange blooms. Grows to 8’ x 12’.
  • Hamamelis x Intermedia “Arnold Promise” – One of the best for year-round color. Yellow flowers bloom profusely, and they have a delicious scent! Grows to 12’ x 12’.
  • Hamamelis x Intermedia “Sunburst” – By far the brightest yellow flowers of any witch hazel. Grows to 12’ x 12’.

Camellia Sasanqua – Blooms in fall and winter, while other camelias bloom in spring. Glossy evergreen foliage can make an attractive informal hedge or privacy screen. Can grow well under large, established trees, but needs at least some filtered sunlight.

  • “Yuletide” – Red flowers with a yellow center bloom near Christmas, as the name suggests. Bush has an upright habit. Grows to 8’ x 10’.
  • “Kraemer’s Supreme” – Has large, double-petaled red flowers, reminiscent of Peony blooms. More shade tolerant than the other two varieties. Grows to 6’ x 8’.
  • “Setsugekka” – Ruffled white flowers with yellow centers. Bush has a semi-weeping habit and can be espaliered. Grows to 8’ x 10’.

Winter JasmineJasmine Nudiflorum – Small white flowers in January are scentless, as opposed to other, more fragrant types of Jasmine. This evergreen plant can be described as a “scrambling shrub,” rather than a vine, because it can grow up to 15 feet tall with support, or just 4’ x 7’ on its own.

Stachyurus Chimensis “Joy Forever” – Long, lacey, pale yellow flower buds appear on bare branches of this deciduous shrub in late winter. Variegated foliage is green with creamy edges in the summer, changing to bronze in fall. Likes acidic soil. Grows to 6’ x 10’.

Stop by the Nursery to peruse our selection, or give us a call at (360) 321-9931 for more information!

Written by Olivia Round.

Deer Resistant Plants

Gardening in the Pacific Northwest is challenging. First, we find plants that grow with limited sun exposure. Second, we consider our environment. We share this beautiful scenery with many animals, most importantly, deer. With this being the case, we now have limits on plants for our gardens. As garden experts, we recommend plants for this situation. Here are nine deer resistant plants:

Pieris japonica | ‘Little Heath’

  • Evergreen shrub
  • All-year color
  • Blooms in Spring
  • Best grown in medium moisture soil with North or East exposure and shelter from the wind

Osmanthus delavayi | Devilwood

  • Evergreen shrub
  • Blooms in April with fragrant flowers
  • Adaptable to grow in either full sun or full shade
  • Best grown in well-drained soil, but will tolerate clay or sand
  • Drought tolerant but appreciates occasional watering
  • Light pruning can help keep this shrub dense

Bear’s breeches | Acanthus mollis

  • Part shade to shade
  • 3′ x 3′ full size
  • Best grown in moist well-drained soil
  • Blooms in the Spring and Summer
  • Lush, attractive, loped foliage
  • Low maintenance

Yarrow | Achillea x moonshine

  • Grown in beds, borders, or containers
  • Large clusters of flowers above ferny, aromatic foliage
  • Heat loving
  • Blooms in summer
  • Attracts bees, butterflies and hummingbirds
  • Drought tolerant
  • Low maintenance

Foxglove | Digitalis purpurea

  • Best grown in partial sun with moist well-drained soil and shelter from the wind
  • Blooms in the Summer
  • Low maintenance
  • Good for containers

Beardtounge | Penstemon ‘Raven’

  • Best grown in full sun with well-drained soil
  • Blooms all summer to the first frost
  • Low maintenance
  • Drought tolerant
  • Attracts hummingbirds, bees and butterflies
  • Great cut flower

Cat mint | Nepeta faassenii ‘Cat’s meow’

  • Grown in beds, borders, or containers
  • Large clusters of blue-purple flowers above aromatic foliage
  • Blooms in spring and summer
  • Drought and heat tolerant
  • Attracts bees, butterflies and hummingbirds
  • Low maintenance

Gold Heart Bleeding | Heart Dicentra spectabilis

  • Grown in beds or containers
  • Heart-shaped flowers above vivid gold-chartreuse foliage
  • Blooms in early to late spring
  • Grows best in part to full shade, with moist soil
  • Low maintenance

Wallflower | Erysimum ‘Bowles’s Mauve’

  • Grown in beds, borders, or containers
  • Evergreen grey-green foliage, with long lasting purple flowers
  • Grows in poor, well drained soils
  • Drought and heat tolerant
  • Needs full sun
  • Attracts bees and butterflies